1toknow: Home and Garden

Backyard Pond

2008-06-13T07:37:00.001-07:00

Backyard Pond

Where to Put a Backyard Pond
Consider locating your backyard pond where you can see it from a deck or patio. Have it blend in with its natural surroundings. Elevate the soil around the backyard pond slightly so that excess water will flow away from the backyard pond, not into it. Make sure that...

Pond Liners
Pond liners keep water from seeping into the soil. Even in heavy clay soils, a pond liner is necessary. You can buy rigid pond liners in a variety of shapes. These are durable and may include built-in waterfalls. Many are quite small. If you want a larger pool or...

Installing a Backyard Pond
You can put in a backyard pond anytime the ground is not frozen or overly wet. If using a preformed liner, dig a hole to the correct depth and slightly wider. Insert the liner, making sure it is level and sits securely in the ground. Backfill around the sides. Add...

Choosing and Establishing Pond Plants
1. Consider the following when selecting backyard pond plants: -How deep is the backyard pond? This will be a factor in establishing pond plants and their survival over winter if you live in colder regions. Some species need a minimum depth of 2 to 3 feet to...

Adding Pond Fish and Pond Scavengers
Consider stocking your backyard pond with native pond fish. They are fun to watch and help keep the pond free of unwanted insects. Most small backyard ponds will warm up quickly in the summer, so make sure you stock with pond fish that can tolerate elevated...

Pond Maintenance
Algae is a common problem in many newly established backyard ponds. The water often becomes an unsightly green after a few days. While your first instinct is to drain the pond and start over, this only prolongs the problem. Once a backyard pond is "balanced," algae...

Pond Safety
Locate the backyard pond where it is unlikely to attract unattended children. Check local safety ordinances to determine if a fence is required for the specific depth and size of your backyard pond. Check local building ordinances for...

Backyard Pond

2008-06-13T07:37:00.000-07:00

All New Square Foot Gardening

2007-10-18T05:39:00.001-07:00

All New Square Foot Gardening

All New Square Foot Gardening instructs gardeners to grow their vegetables and plants above ground in boxes filled with Mel's special soil recipe. Seeds planted in quadrants produce a bountiful harvest all year using minimum space. All New Square Foot Gardening ushers this 25-year-old method into a new marketplace for a new generation of gardeners. The book blends the author's Square Foot method with... read more

Guide to Growing Delicious Vegetables, Fruits & Herbs

2007-10-18T05:36:00.000-07:00

Guide to Growing Delicious Vegetables, Fruits & Herbs

The newest and most up-to-date plant-care reference.

Guidebook focuses on plant care needs for healthy, vibrant results.

Identifies a specific plant group and addresses cultural requirements for a variety of the most widely grown species.

A to Z listing of plants by both... read more

Well-Tended Perennial Garden: Planting and Pruning Techniques

2007-10-18T05:32:00.000-07:00

Well-Tended Perennial Garden: Planting and Pruning Techniques

With more than 130,000 copies sold since its original publication, The Well-Tended Perennial Garden has proven itself to be one of the most useful tools a gardener can have. Now, this new, expanded edition promises to be an even more effective ally in your quest to create a beautiful, healthy... read more

5 Perennials For Shade Gardens

2007-05-09T16:22:00.000-07:00

We all know that flowers love sunshine, but did you realize that there are perennials that love the shade?

You can create a beautiful garden in the shade that can act as a cooling retreat on those hot summer days. By using perennials, your flowers will come up year after year for a lifetime of enjoyment.

Shade gardens offer much more than gardens that sit in the blazing sun all day. You can actually sit in them and enjoy them. Pull up a nice lounge chair or have a beautiful granite bench installed. Sit and read on a hot day, or just sip a drink and enjoy the birds and butterflies.

Like any other garden the best shade gardens will have taller plants in the back against the house or woods, medium growing plants in the middle and the shorter or ground cover plants on the inner edge. Since most perennials bloom for a short time, you ‘ll want to plant them so that you always have color in the garden. Stage the planting so that each area has a blooming plant at all times of the season.

Here’s a list of some perennials that thrive in the shade:

Astibe - This plant comes in 3 “sizes” which grow to 20", 30" and 40" in a variety of colors. You can make a whole garden just with this 1 flower! It looks best planted in groups and has clumps of fluffy flower spikes.

Foxglove - This is a great plant for the back row of the garden as it can grow to 5 feet tall. It comes in a variety of colors and has large spikes filled with bell shaped flowers. This beautiful flower is highly toxic if ingested so be careful with it around animals and small children.

Lily Of The valley - This wonderfully fragrant plant has dainty white bell shaped flowers. It is great for a ground cover or the front of the garden as it grows to only about 6" tall.

Lousiana Iris - This beautiful velvety purple black flower produces 4" blooms that last well into June. Plant in groups for best effect. Grows about 2 feet tall.

Virginia Blue Bells - This medium sized plant has lavender bell shaped clusters. It grows to about 2 feet in height and is very hardy and easy to grow despite it’s fragile appearance.

About the Author:

Lee Dobbins is a contributing writer for Backyard Garden And Patio.com where you can find out more about building your dream garden and growing garden flowers

Black-Eyed Susan

2007-05-09T16:12:00.001-07:00

Black-eyed Susan is a perennial with foliage, brown and green centers, and yellow or orange-yellow flowers. Black-eyed Susan grows to a height of two to six feet and spreads to a width of about eighteen to thirty-six inches.

Black-eyed Susan grows best in zones three to eight. Plant black-eyed Susan in full sun or partial shade and in well drained soil. Divide black-eyed Susan every three to five years during the fall. Water black-eyed Susan regularly when newly developing.

Bellflower

2007-05-08T10:36:00.000-07:00

Bellflower, also known as campanula, is a perennial with mixed growing habits producing spring, summer, or autumn flowers of blue, purple, pink, and white color. Bellflower grows to a height of four inches to six feet and spreads to a width of about twelve to thirty-six inches.

Bellflower grows best in zones three to seven. Plant bellflower in full sun, partial shade, or light shade and in well drained soil. Deadhead bellflower to extend blooming. Mulch bellflower in the summer to keep roots from becoming too warm or dry. Mulch bellflower in the winter to keep roots protected.

Additional Gardening Links

2007-05-01T16:46:00.000-07:00

About: Gardening
... Growing Perennials, Gardening Tools, Annual Flowers, Gardeing with Vegetables ... Flower Gardening Vegetables, Fruits & More Small Space & Urban Gardens Container ...

Garden Web
Gardening articles, pictorial plant database, glossary of botanical terms, and gardening tips.

Bearberry

2007-05-01T16:13:00.000-07:00

Bearberry, also known as kinnikinnick, is a perennial with evergreen foliage, tiny white to pink flowers, and bright red fruit. Bearberry grows to a height of four to six inches and spreads to a width of about eighteen to thirty-six inches.

Bearberry grows best in zones two to seven. Plant bearberry in full sun or partial shade and in moist and well-drained soil. Mulch bearberry until it is established to keep the weeds down.

Astilbe

2007-04-29T09:19:00.001-07:00

Astilbe is a perennial with eye-catching foliage and peach, pink, white, purple and red summer flowers. Astilbe grows to a height of ten inches to four feet and spreads to a width of about eight to thirty-six inches.

Astilbe grows best in zones three to nine. Plant astilbe in partial or light shade and in moist and well-drained soil, though, away from standing water. Divide astilbe about every three years. Add an extra layer of soil as astilbe roots lift out of original soil.

Aster

2007-04-29T09:09:00.001-07:00

Aster is a perennial with yellow centers and late summer to mid autumn flower shades of red, white, blue, purple, and pink. Aster grows to a height of ten inches to five feet and spreads to a width of about eighteen to thirty-six inches.

Aster grows best in zones three to eight. Plant aster in full sun and in moist and well-drained soil. Pinch aster back in early summer to encourage thick growth and to decrease disease. Divide aster every two to every third year to continue heartiness and to control increased growth.

Artemisia

2007-04-29T08:57:00.000-07:00

Artemisia, also known as wormwood or sage, is a perennial with silver gray, feathery or extremely lobed foliage. Artemisia grows to a height of six inches to six feet and spreads to a width of about twelve to thirty-six inches.

Artemisia grows best in zones three to eight. Plant artemisia in full sun and in well-drained soil. Cut artemisia back to encourage new grow and to keep artemisia looking trim. Divide artemisia every year or every other year.

Gardening Question of the Day

2007-04-22T15:35:00.000-07:00

Ajuga

2007-04-22T12:57:00.000-07:00

Ajuga, also known as bugleweed, is a perennial with colorful foliage and purple, blue, pink, and white flowers in the late spring to early summer. Ajuga grows to a height of three to twelve inches and spreads to a width of about six to thirty-six inches.

Ajuga grows best in zones three to eight. Plant ajuga in partial or light shade and in well-drained soil. Divide ajuga any time during the season. Remove growth of poor seedlings.

Water Gardens

2007-04-20T09:47:00.000-07:00

Create a water garden for added beauty and to increase the value of your property.

Choose components for a water garden that help keep plant and fish life healthy:

Pump- Look for a high efficiency pump that is inexpensive to buy, but will use less than one-quarter the electricity of a common sump pump. Consider the gph (gallons per hour) of the pump first then take into consideration the wattage. Multiply the pump wattage by 720 and divide by 1000 to get kilowatt usage per month. Multiply this by the kilowatt charge on your electric bill to figure out your monthly energy expenses. After carefully reviewing usage per year, decide which pump will be the most economical.

Filtration System- Decide on an above or below water filter that provides easy access for maintenance. If choosing a below water filter, choose one that is weighted so it will sink to the bottom. A filter that is complete with two chambers of foam will allow for prefiltering, which will keep your system additional free of debris.

UV Sterilizer- Select a UV sterilizer to aid in the filtration process of free-floating, single-cell algae that make water gardens murky and unattractive. Protect your water garden by choosing a UV sterilizer that will not negatively affect plants or pond life, and one that is easy to clean and maintain. Some come with a self cleaning mechanism.

Tubing- Calculate how much tubing you’ll need to buy. Measure the point where you’ll be placing the filter to where the pump will be resting. Measure from the pump, up and out of the water garden to where the filter will be placed. Then, measure from the filter to where the UV unit will be, from the UV unit to the water garden, and the return to the water garden. Be sure to add a little extra to the amount you’ve figured. Tubing should be strong and durable to prevent kinks that could shut down your system. Black tubing will reduce algae growth inside the tubing.

Install a water garden easily and efficiently.

Start with a large rope or garden hose to lay out an area for digging. Mark the entire outline with your shovel, then begin digging. All sides should angle slightly inward from top to bottom, and the water garden bottom should be level, yet angle slightly toward one end to ease draining and cleaning.

Loosely lay the liner into the dug out area so the entire edge of the water garden is overlapped evenly. Secure the liner with smooth stones and begin filling with water. Remove the placement stones as the filling of the water garden pulls the liner into place. Smooth out all wrinkles before there is too much water pressure and weight to adjust the liner. After the water garden is filled, trim the overlapped liner leaving about six inches around the entire edge.

Add a pump, filtration system, and UV sterilizer to ensure the water garden stays clean and healthy.

Lay rocks or materials of your choice around the edge of the water garden to cover the overlapped liner.

Add a waterfall to a water garden to help keep the water temperature cool and the water garden oxygenated.

Use your imagination to create a layout. A waterfall can be designed in layers with several small rocks, large rocks, or even slabs. It can have two to three tiers, or more if you’d like. It can be integrated into the layout of a rock wall and lit with a single light, or several lights.

However your design, implement a layout with a stable foundation, either raised with dirt or rock, and a proper flow of water.

Place a liner over your layout that is at least 2 feet wider on both sides than your actual layout. Carefully cover it with the rocks or slabs you’ve chosen using larger boulders for the area that is to direct the flow of water. Cut back any excess liner, and cover any remaining liner with rock, gravel, or other material of choice.

Select a pump powerful enough to lift the water from your water garden to the area of your layout.

Grade any flat areas to slope down and away from your layout to allow for proper drainage.

Add a fountain to a water garden to also help keep the water temperature cool and the water garden oxygenated.

Fountains can be designed in many ways and vary in function. The following are a few ideas to choose from:

Solar powered fountain
Floating fountain
Lighted fountain
Metal sculpture fountain
Bamboo fountain
Brass weathered patina fountain
Barrel fountain
Two or three tier barrel fountain
Wide, fine, high, or low blossom fountain
Adjustable blossom fountain
Blossom fountain with jet effects
Wide, fine, high, or low froth fountain
Adjustable froth fountain
Froth fountain with jet effects
Wide, fine, high, or low trumpet jet fountain
Adjustable trumpet jet fountain
Trumpet jet fountain with jet effects
Wide, fine, high, or low bell fountain
Adjustable bell fountain
Bell fountain with jet effects
A couple or many different spray patterns in one

Add plants to a water garden to shelter a large portion of the water garden, keep water cooler, and reduce algae growth. Healthy plants within a water garden will also aid in the success of a water garden’s adequate aeration.

Lilies and hyacinths are floating water plants and both are an excellent beginner choice for water garden life. Lilies prefer calm water while hyacinths can handle some moving water. Other types of water garden dwelling plants include lotus, bog plants, and submerged plants.

Leaves and stems will need to occasionally be trimmed. Lotus leaves will die as they rest on the water, but will nicely flourish once they begin to grow out of the water. Lily pads can last for up to about three weeks, yet lilies will bloom only for about three days.

Maintain a water garden daily by checking water flow. Examine the filter and pump if the water flow has noticeably changed. Test for nitrate and pH weekly, and clean filters and pumps monthly.

Trim plants stems, as needed, close to the soil. Remove any plant trimmings from the water, as they will decay and clog pumps and filters.

Control algae by decreasing the levels of what makes it grow. Sunlight, warm water, excess nutrients, phosphates and CO2 are all contributing elements to algae growth and can be controlled by adding extra plant life to your water garden. Sunlight can be additionally controlled by adding an arbor over a water garden.

Protect a water garden from the threat of mosquitoes. Eliminate standing water. Even if you choose not to include fish, all water gardens should have some type of movement in them. Attract bats to the area by providing bat houses. One bat alone will eat up to 600 mosquitoes in one hour. Burn mosquito sticks made of 100% Western Australian Sandalwood incense, or try a SonicWeb insect trap.

Learn more about water gardens through these additional resources:

The Master Book of the Water Garden: The Ultimate Guide to the Design and Maintenance of the Water Garden

Water Gardening: Water Lilies and Lotuses

Trees

2007-04-20T09:45:00.000-07:00

Garden with trees for beauty, added privacy, and to increase the value of your property.

Choose trees that slightly droop, bloom beautiful flowers, are hardy and fast growing, or grand:

Beech- spreading branches, slivery bark, shallow root system

Cedar- blueish colored stiff branches that slightly droop, best grown in rich, well-drained soil

Crab Apple- beautiful spring flowers and red and yellow fruit, grows in almost any climate

Douglas Fir- soft blue-green, 1-inch needles, hardy and fast growing

Flowering Dogwood- pink or white flowers and red berries, best in light shade

Hemlock- short and flat dark green needles, great in sun or shade

Red Maple- red flowers in very early spring, fast growing

White Birch- beautiful white bark, slightly drooping branches, can be grown in clumps

Willow Oak- slender leaves, shallow roots, fast growing

Willow- weeping branches that reach the ground, fast growing in wet areas, needs pruning often

Plant trees with bare roots in spring while they’re still dormant. Plant container trees any time during the growing season. Plant burlapped trees during the early spring and early fall.

Choose a well-drained, fertile site. Dig a hole 2 feet wider than the roots of the tree. For bare root trees, build a mound for the tree’s roots to rest on, then place roots spread out across the mound. For burlapped trees, leave the burlap on, and place the tree in the hole. Stake the tree with a large pole and rope. Cover the roots, pack lightly, and water.

Train younger trees to assure mature and beautifully shaped trees. After planting, make a cut above a bud, at about 6 feet high, to force branching. Remove unwanted branches after the second and third growing season.

Care for trees each year. Snip off small branches that cross and rub against other branches. Remove branches that are too close together. Prune sprouts that might burden the strength of the tree. Remove lower branches by cutting off one or two branches a year, and cut off suckers from around the base of trees.

Learn more about trees through these additional resources:

Conifers: The Illustrated Encyclopedia (2 Volumes)

Diseases of Trees and Shrubs (Comstock Book)

Shrubs and Hedges

2007-04-20T09:41:00.000-07:00

Garden with shrubs and hedges to attract butterflies and hummingbirds, for increased privacy, or for protection against the wind.

Choose shrubs and hedges that form a soft green hedge, shear easily, grow tall and wide, or bloom beautiful flowers:

Azaleas- many sizes, colors and varieties, beautiful border plants when grouped in masses, or stunning on own

Boxwood- can reach a height of 20 feet, shears well, and forms a soft looking green hedge

Ficus- grows full and tall, forms a grand privacy screen of green

Forsythia- grows tall and wide, and blooms a beautiful golden yellow

Hydrangea- grows full and wide, and puts forth large blooms of beautiful color

Juniper- showy and versatile coming in several different plant types and sizes

Plant shrubs and hedges with bare roots in winter or early spring. Keep the roots moist until ready to plant. Dig a hole larger than the root area. Form a cone of soil in the bottom of the hole. Place the shrub in the hole. Spread the roots over the cone. Fill the hole halfway. Lightly pack soil around the roots. Water, then complete filling the hole.

Prune shrubs and hedges to control size, improve shape, increase flowering, and to remove deadwood.

To reduce size, increase bloom, and control shape of a mature plant, cut right above a strong bud.

To revive an old shrub with many branches, cut 1/3 of the older limbs at the soil line every year.

To keep a plant equally proportioned, cut off new shoots as they appear.

To increase the size of flowers, trim all branches back.

To keep growth thick, clip shoots with a knife or hand pruners.

Learn more about shrubs and hedges through these additional resources:

Complete Trees, Shrubs & Hedges: Secrets for Selection and Care (Complete)

Trees, Shrubs & Hedges for Home Landscaping: Secrets for Selection and Care

Indoor House Plants

2007-04-20T09:36:00.000-07:00

Garden with indoor house plants to add color to a room, fill an empty corner, or liven-up a windowsill.

Choose indoor house plants that grow well in hot and dry conditions, hang or sit upright, are durable, or are decorative:

Aloe- a medicinal plant that grows well in hot, dry conditions

Begonia- a flowering plant of different varieties and spectacular color

Coleus- grows easily, has velvety leaves, and comes in many color combinations

Ferns- a popular favorite that comes in many varieties and is easy to grow

Fuchsia- beautiful flowering upright or hanging, excellent in cool conditions

Impatiens- delicate, five-petal flowers of many different colors that bloom almost continuously

Ivy- several varieties, easy and fast growing, especially decorative trailing over door and window frames

Poinsettia- large colored drooping petals, a favorite during the winter holidays that stays beautiful right into the spring

Pot indoor house plants in small containers so plants will not suffer from excess moisture. Pot plants in containers with screened drain holes so soil can stay in but water can drain out. Move plants into larger pots as they grow.

Care for indoor house plants on a regular basis. Keep plants that like to be on the moist side evenly moist, but not soggy. Water plants thoroughly that like to dry out, then do not water again until the soil feel s dry. Don’t let plants reach the wilting stage before watering them. Provide for humidity by using a humidifier, and lower your thermostat in the winter to 68 degrees.

Learn more about indoor house plants through these additional resources:

The House Plant Expert

Indoor plants

Vegetables

2007-04-20T09:32:00.000-07:00

Garden with vegetables for fresh, healthy harvesting of your very own.

Choose vegetables that produce abundant crops, withstand cold, are durable, or are easy to grow:

Beans- take little space, produce abundant crops, and have very few problems

Beets- come in a number of colors, shapes, and varieties, are decorative, and make for beautiful natural container and border plants

Carrots- grow easily in small areas, withstand cold conditions, and stay fresh for months

Cabbage- easy to grow, comes in different varieties, and is excellent in salads, coleslaw, and stir-fried dishes

Kale- a very decorative, yet strong plant that can put up with harsh conditions

Lettuce- one of the most popular and easiest to grow of vegetables with many varieties to choose from

Onions- comes in many varieties, easy to grow, takes up little space, and can be stored for a long time

Plant vegetables using the following as a general guide:

Vegetable- Distance Between Plants in Rows, Depth to Plant
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Asparagus- 24 inches, 6-8 inches
Beans, Lima- 4-8 inches, 1 inch
Beans, Snap- 3-6 inches, 1 inch
Beets- 2-4 inches, 1/2 inch
Broccoli- 14-16 inches, 1/4 inch
Brussels Sprouts- 14-16 inches, 1/4 inch
Cabbage- 10-12 inches, 1/4 inch
Carrots- 2-3 inches, 1/4 inch
Cauliflower- 10-12 inches, 1/4 inch
Celery- 8-10 inches, 1/4 inch
Collards- 12-15 inches, 1/4 inch
Corn- 8-12 inches, 1 inch
Cucumber- 8-12 inches, 1/2-1 inch
Eggplant- 12-14 inches, 1/2 inch
Kale- 6-8 inches, 1/4 inch
Leeks- 3-4 inches, 1/2 inch
Luttuce, Head- 8-10 inches, 1/4 inch
Lettuce, Leaf- 2-3 inches, 1/4 inch
Okra- 10-12 inches, 1/2 inch
Onion- 2-3 inches, 1/4 inch
Peas- 2-5 inches, 1 inch
Peppers- 10-12 inches, 1/4 inch
Potatoes- 10-12 inches, 4 inches
Radishes- 1 inch, 1/4 inch
Rhubarb- 30-36 inches, 2 inches
Rutabaga- 4-6 inches, 1/2 inch
Spinach- 3-4 inches, 1/4 inch
Squash, Summer- 8-12 inches, 1/2-1 inch
Squash, Winter- 8-10 inches, 1 inch
Sweet Potatoes- 12-15 inches, 12-15 inches
Tomatoes- 24-36 inches, 1/4-1/2 inch
Turnips- 4-6 inches, 4-6 inches
Zucchini- 8-10 inches, 1/2-1 inch

Harvest vegetables using the following as a general guide:

Asparagus- Harvest 8 inch high and 1/2 inch thick shoots when plants are 2-3 years from planting. Continue Harvesting from mid-spring until early July.

Beans- Harvest at any size and pick frequently to ensure crop keeps producing.

Beets- Begin harvesting when they reach about 1 inch in diameter.

Broccoli- When the heads are clustered firmly, cut off, but leave about 6 inches of stem attached.

Brussels Sprouts- Twist sprouts off the stem after the first frost.

Cabbage- When heads are firm, cut the stem below the head and leave the remaining plant.

Carrots- Carrots can be harvested at almost any time and all winter long.

Cauliflower- When the head reaches a suitable size and the flowerets are firm, cut the head, except for about 2 inches, off the main stem.

Corn- Ears are ready to be picked about 20 days after the silk shows.

Cucumbers- Harvest young before seeds are fully developed.

Eggplant- Pick while the skin is glossy and before the seeds begin to mature

Kale- Begin harvesting after frost. Pick individual leaves, and avoid cutting the center growing bud.

Lettuce- Harvest lettuce after leaves form. Cut the entire head or pick only the outer leaves.

Onion- Pull when the tops fall over and the edge of the leaves begin to turn brown.

Peas- Pick when they are firm and glossy green. Pick frequently to ensure the crop keeps producing.

Peppers- Pick after mature, or pick often and before maturity to continue crop production.

Radishes- Pull as soon as mature.

Squash- Harvest young before seeds are fully developed.

Tomatoes- Pick tomatoes as they begin to show color, or allow them to continue to ripen before picking.

Stay healthy with vegetables that are high in vitamins, nutrients, and fiber, but low in fat, calories, and carbohydrates.

Use the following as a general guide for low and high carb vegetables:

Low Carb Vegetables
-----------------------
Asparagus
Broccoli
Brussels Sprouts
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Celery
Cucumber
Eggplant
Green Beans
Leafy Greens
Leeks
Onions
Peppers
Radishes

High Carb Vegetables
------------------------
Beets
Carrots
Corn
Peas
Potatoes
Winter Squash

Learn more about vegetables through these additional resources:

How to Grow More Vegetables Than You Ever Thought Possible on Less Land Than You Can Imagine: A Primer on the Life-Giving Biodynamic/French Intensiv

The Vegetable Gardener's Bible: Discover Ed's High-Yield W-O-R-D System for All North American Gardening Regions

Perennials

2007-04-20T09:27:00.000-07:00

Garden with perennials for dependable variety year after year.

Choose perennials that are semi-double or double, colorful, or easy to grow:

Bleeding Heart- heart-shaped, pink to rose flowers needing moist soil and partially shaded location

Chrysanthemum- single, semi-double, and double flowers, in all colors but blue, needing moist, well-drained soil, and full-sun location.

Delphinium- very tall flowers of many colors, though, mostly blue, needing moist, well-drained soil and full sun location

Geranium- easy-to-grow flowers of many colors needing mostly any soil type and full sun or partial shade location

Hosta- showy flowers with bright foliage from 4” to 3’ needing moist, well-drained soil and partial to deep shade location

Lupine- large spiked 3-4’ tall flowers of many colors needing a cool location

Phlox- soft pastel flowers, some with a contrasting center, ranging from low laying to tall flowers, needing moist soil and full sun or partial shade location

Rudbeckia- yellow, daisy-like flowers with contrasting centers needing any soil type and full sun location

Begin perennials indoors to allow slow growing flowers extra needed time for germination.

Moisten the germinating mix you will be using with warm water. Fill small containers with the moistened germinating mix. Lightly pack the mix into the containers almost to the top. Label each container with the seed you will be planting. Determine the planting depth of each of the seeds. Insert seeds, as determined, into the soil. Add a light layer of mix to cover the seeds. Water the newly planted seeds using a fine spray, and cover all containers with clear plastic until the seeds germinate.

Seeds and seedlings should never be allowed to dry out, yet, too much water can harm and even kill seedlings, and over watering can make soil temperatures too cold.

Consistently warm temperatures, about 70-75 degrees, are important for germination to take place. Electric mats can provide bottom heat.

Proper lighting is also important for germination to take place. Use white lighting above containers and adjust intensity as needed by raising or lowering lights.

Once germination takes place, new seedlings will need natural or fluorescent light to grow.

Replant perennials before their roots grow too big for their containers.

Begin this process by watering the seedlings in their containers and watering the ground where they will be planted. Work some compost or manure into the ground, then rake the bed smooth.

Decide where you will be placing your seedlings, keeping taller growing plants to the back, and determine how far apart each seedling should be. Measure and mark the spot each seedling will go by poking finger-deep holes into the ground.

Take one seedling out of a container by holding the stem gently and pushing up a little from the bottom of the container. Set the seedling into the first planting hole. Hold it so that the soil around the seedling is even with the garden soil. Pull soil around the roots of the seedling, and pack gently. Continue with each of the seedlings until all are planted.

Water each new plant. Let the water soak in, and water again.

Arrange perennials that bloom in spring, summer, and fall together for color from season to season.

Learn more about perennials through these additional resources:

The Well-Tended Perennial Garden: Planting and Pruning Techniques

Perennial Combinations: Stunning Combinations That Make Your Garden Look Fantastic Right from the Start

Flower Bulbs

2007-04-20T09:22:00.000-07:00

Garden with flower bulbs for lasting, dependable color and bloom.

Choose flower bulbs that are fancy, fragrant, small, or grand:

Caladiums- fancy, heart-shaped leaves of green, white, silver, pink, and red

Daffodils- beautiful trumpet-like flowers of many colorful choices that grow to the height of 4-20”

Glory of Snow- star-shaped pink, white, and blue flowers that grow to the height of 4-5”

Hyacinths- foot-high flowers of vibrant colors and rich fragrances

Lilies- flared trumpet-like flowers of all different sizes, colors, and varieties

Tulips- strong blooms of many different colors, sizes, and varieties

Plant flower bulbs in spring if they bloom in fall and in fall if they bloom in spring.

Till or turn the soil in the area where you will be planting, remove any debris, and spread compost or manure over the area. Till or turn the soil and remove any debris again, then lightly rake the area.

Determine proper spacing, then begin planting each bulb with the top facing skyward at a depth equal to three times each bulb’s diameter-- if a bulb is one inch across, plant it three inches deep. Cover and lightly pack bulbs with soil. Water thoroughly.

Stake flower bulbs that are larger by placing one end of a 4-foot pole beside the bulb while planting. Fill in the hole and pack soil to remove any air pockets and to secure the pole. Water thoroughly.

As the plant grows, pinch off flower buds and side leaves from the stem so that only two ore three buds are left at the top of the stem. Rest the stem against the stake, but do not secure it.

Once the stem is about twelve inches high, loosely secure it to the stake with rope. As the stem grows, continue securing it every eight to twelve inches.

Protect flower bulbs from animals during planting. Arrange some stones at the bottom of the planting hole, place the bulb on top of the stones, place more stones around it, but do not cover the very top of the bulb, then fill in the hole.

If additional precautions need to be taken, line the bottom and sides of the planting hole with metal wire. Fill lightly with some soil, place the bulb, then finish filling in the hole with soil. This method is used most often when planting beds of bulbs.

Learn more about flower bulbs through these additional resources:

The Random House Book of Bulbs

Ortho's All About Bulbs (Ortho's All About Gardening)

Groundcovers

2007-04-20T08:17:00.000-07:00

Garden with groundcovers for hard to cover bare spots, or to brighten problem areas.

Choose groundcovers that are fast growing, colorful, durable, or easy to grow:

Crown Vetch- a fast spreading carpet of summer-long blossoms that grow to the height of 10-12”

Ground Cover Daylilies- a colorful, fast growing, and non-demanding groundcover that grows to the height of 2’

Ground Cover Roses- an easy-to-grow rose choice that spreads 5’ wide and reaches the height of 2-3’

Heath- a winter-long cover of beautiful color that spreads 20-30” and reaches the height of 6”

Ice Plant- a durable and colorful summer-blooming groundcover that reaches the height of 3-4”

Irish Moss- a year-long green carpet with white midsummer blooms to the height of 2-4”

Periwinkle- a year-long green cover with blue spring flowers reaching the height of 4-5”

Snow In Summer- a beautiful summer cover of white flowers that grows to the height of 4-6”

Snow On The Mountain- a fast-growing, green and white groundcover that grows to the height of 8-10”

Plant groundcovers in spring if they bloom in fall, and in fall if they bloom in spring.

Secure woven black plastic across the planting area to keep weeds down until groundcover plants are established. Determine where your groundcover plants will be placed, then slightly cut the black plastic open and dig a hole at each determined place. Lay groundcover plants within each hole, and carefully backfill. Water thoroughly.

Cover the black plastic with a layer of bark chippings. When the groundcover plants are fully established, carefully remove the plastic.

Care for groundcovers as you would other flowers, in addition, shear off dead blossoms to encourage blooming.

Learn more about groundcovers through these additional resources:

Gardening With Groundcovers and Vines

The Complete Book of Groundcovers